Steering Linkage

Started on the steering joints and rods. I used a 3/4" dowel as suggested by the documentation for the kit. But with a dowel, you can't actually rotate the linkage much. So I got the lengths of rod cut but when I assembled, I found the middle u-joint is binding. Too steep of an angle. I don't know if there is a "wrong" way to put this linkage together, but I had to figure out a way to decrease the angle a little. So I reversed the setup I originally planned based on the photoshopped image I got out of the PDF instructions. With the lollipop where it was, I could not decrease the angle enough without running out of the longer shaft I had already cut and without making the angle of the lollipop too extreme. I needed to straighten the bracket that holds the lollipop a little to decrease that angle. I also shimmed it out about a half-inch from the frame with washers. That plus putting the middle u-joint above the lollipop made the angle work out pretty well. Of course, before I finalized the steering rods, I had to get the shifter link in place. With all the holes that thing has to adjust it, none would line up. I had to drill four holes between the existing holes and siamese them to give me a bit of adjustment once on the column. I *think* I have it set so that the upper detente-locked position of the shift lever is neutral on the trans. I won't be able to really tell how it works until I can fire up the engine and try it.

With the linkages set, I snugged down the column and turned to addressing the levers and wheel. For the turn signal lever, I made some modifications to the original to make it work with the new column by flattening the top and bottom of the round lever end, then spot welding a tiny bit of flat metal to the bottom to fill the wider slot on the new switch. And I also had to drill out the hole for the screw a little too. Not sure it was all worth it over using the Flaming River one... but since that one is shorter for smaller wheels, it probably is.

So that leaves the horn.The Flaming River horn contact needs a male spade lug to connect to. The simplest first attempt is to solder a lug onto the correct part of the horn ring. I know the joint looks dicey, but it had plenty of heat and flux, so maybe it will hold. If not, the next attempt will include drilling a tiny hole for a screw. It can't protrude far though, as the foam ring behind the horn assembly mustn't be damaged by it.